Naoshima- the unknown island of modern art

Unless you're someone like Ori and do a thorough research job before traveling, you would have never heard of Naoshima. In fact, every Japanese person we've spoken to thus far had not heard of it. When we started planning the trip, Ori sent me a link to review and see if Im interested in stopping there.

This is what I saw - 

How could I say no? And island full of modern art -paintings, statues and architecture. Btw, I want to take photo credit for the above - its not from the above mentioned website. As every day of this honeymoon unfolds, I am amazed at all the things that we are seeing in person after reading about them and seeing photos on the internet. This pumpkin is but one such example. 

Though we saw it later in the day, you'll forgive me if I skip ahead and tell you about what happened here to make it all that much more surreal. As we are standing by the pumpkin, which is situation at the end of a narrow dock, there were a few other people there. We each took turns taking photos so as not to photobomb each other. There was the Japanese couple (currently unseen as they are on the other side of the pumpkin during the taking of this picture, and three Chinese women. Ori and I finished taking our photos and looking around and generally enjoying the experience. We turned away to walk towards the bus station and heard a big splash. I looked back, and as you might have guessed, one of the Chinese women had stepped backwards and stepped off the deck into the water. I quickly reached over and pulled her back up. The odd thing was that her friends, while standing around didn't reach for her purse, or glasses or jacket or whatever the other thing was that was under water by the time I saw it. The poor woman (and her friends) were shocked. But there was nothing else I could have done to help, so I went to Ori (who had been too far out during the excitement) and we went to the bus. Crazy!

Ok, back to the start of the day. 

We woke up early in Hiroshima and said goodbye to Masa and his family. His wonderful wife had made us breakfast to go because we were leaving so early. She even included juice boxes and a box of chocolate chip cookies (Ori was very happy with those cookies). We took the subway to the JR, the JR to a ferry and the ferry to the Island of Naoshima. The view from the ferry was beautiful - little islands and beaches spotted the water way. As we docked, we saw the first of the pumpkins, the red one. And the fun began.

We decided we could walk the entire route and didnt want to take the bus so that we would get the full enjoyment of the scenery. We sure did get the full experience. It was hot, and the route was mountainous and did I mention hot? A man pulled over and offered us a ride up the mountain. If it was further along the way, i might have said yes. But as it was the start and I didnt know how steep it was we politely thanked him and declined. We passed the water lilly garden - installed there in imitation of Monet's water lillies (displayed in a nearby museum), and saw crazy architecture. We walked around the Benesse art museum, which included both art in the form of paintings, statues, installations and architecture. And then we walked out to the beach and the park and picniced between the funky art.

After our picnic is when we walked to the big yellow pumkin and my life saving skills were put to action (ok, maybe her life was not in danger, but still).

We then wandered around the old town and visited some temples and saw tori after tori after tori.

We took the ferry back not wanting to get to Okayama too late in the day. We're really trying to make the best of our time here. Not only checking off touristy attractions but taking it all in. Sitting in a hotel room is a waste, but walking around town, seeing the statues. Watching people interact with each other. Continually being amazed at how clean Japan is. And so much more. Thats what our trip is all about. We see pegople cleaning the space between escalators - you know the gap between the upstairs and the downstairs ? They go over that with a broom every day. There are no garbage bins anywhere, but neither is there any garbage. Im just trying to think of what would happen if Israel got rid of the bins. Hmm, maybe I shouldnt think of that. Happy thoughts only on a honeymoon.

Anyways, back to the day. We got to Okayama and found the hotel. I wanted to send out our laundry to be done, but nope,wont be available until the following day at 19:00. But I could use the machines on the fifth floor. Great (NOT!) I took all our laundry, bought a packet of laundry soap and started the machine. 35 minutes later I came back to put in the dryer and though the machine had finished, it hadnt been emptied out. I waited, and waited, but the owner did not come back. I went upstairs, feeling silly sitting around in the tiny laundry room. I came back downstairs a few minutes later only to find the reception desk guy with a bag of my laundry. The rude guy who hadnt emptied the dryer had come back with a second load. He had the receptionist take out my stuff so that he could use the machine. I had to go down to reception to get the bags and come back to use the dryer. Go explain the situation in Japanese. I was furious. I told them all it was NOT NICE! Big words in Japan. They apologized profusely but did nothing to correct the situation. The fact I was hungry did not help the situation. And the dryer? It sucked. I kept putting in coin after coin and coming back every 15 minutes (that was all it allowed). FInally, I got so frustrated, I took out the heavy stuff to hang around the bedroom and split up the rest between the two dryers. And thats was I call and Israeli occupation. :) 

We finally went out looking for something to eat (i think it was 9:45ish). Both of us in our backpackin finery as everything else was being dried.  Who would have thought finding vegetarian or non pork would be so difficult? Vegetarians and Vegans out there (Kosher, ha!), do not come to Okayama - there's nothing to eat here. We finally found a ramen place that served chicken nuggets and noodles without the soup (soup is usually pork based). We draggedd ourselves back to the hotel and went to sleep, frustrated with the laundry but at least not hungry.

Plus, we were excited to get to Koyasan the next day. Another one of those experiences we'd read about and planned for so long that was going to actually take place. 

Unbelievable!

The wonderful Island of Miyajima

We woke up early to get the most of the day in Miyajima. It is a wonderful little island with so much wonder and humble beauty. At exactly the time agreed upon, Masa called out to us that breakfast was ready. We went to the other room to find a beautifully laid out breakfast of eggs, vegetables, fruit, yogurt and a full basket of buns and baguette. There was even a coffee machine already hot and ready, milk and orange juice. I know it sounds like the usual Israeli breakfast, but after several days of bread, cheese and instant coffee for breakfast, this was heaven. Great start to a great day. 

It was a little overcast, but the temperature was perfect. 

We walked a few minutes to the city train (40 minutes), switched to one JR and twenty minutes later switched to another JR train. Finally in Miyajima we took a short ferry ride to the Island. About an hour and a half after starting out we finally saw the famous Floating Tori in all its red glory. We stood on the ferry taking pictures and stood at the dock taking some more. We walked around the island and kept photographing it from different angles. Going by the number of tourists, school groups and another Japanese wedding, we were far from the only ones to have recognized its true beauty that day.

 

We walked around the Itsukushima-jinja shinto shrine - also red in colour. Almost from everywhere you looked up you could see the five storied pagoda.  

And everywhere you looked down you could see the crazy deer. And if you're eating popcorn - watch out, they'll bite off your finger just for a taste. One chased Ori for a bite of his map. Crazy!

We then walked up the hill to the Buddhist temple - Daisho-in. My experience with temples and shrines is very limited in comparison to Ori who has visited tens if not hundreds throughout China, Hong Kong and Thailand. And yet, he was as awe struck as I, even going as far as saying its the one of the most beautiful temple he's ever been to.  It was not just a temple, but a collection of prayer spots, little buildings, waterfalls and many statues - all in a beautifully kept garden. Though there were the traditional statues of deities and buddah, there were also over 500 little caricature statues that to us, the unenlightened were just adorable. 

Some of the rooms there deserve a photo for themselves because they were so special. 

This room is easily missed; thankfully we peaked into the dark room to find this treasure. It holds six rows of these tomb stone like statues. Each one represents a different buddhist temple. It is said that if you pray at each one of these statues it is like praying at each of the temples themselves. Contrary to how the picture came out, the room is actually much darker creating a feeling of prayer and inner peace. Hardly a word was shared among those inside. 

We eventually walked up to the top of the temple and sat down for a moment to take it all in. 

It is at these moments that I take a second to touch into reality and realize that we are in fact in Japan and not in a dream. Wow. 

We walked down the stairs touching and rolling each of the hundreds of prayer wheels along the many stairs. I hope we didn't do anything wrong and insult someone by doing that cause I didn't see others touching them all. 

Thats the thing about Japan. We're always on the lookout with full alertness on manners, acceptable behaviour and customs. Ori touched upon this in his blog in Hebrew but I feel I have to write about it in English as well. You say Arigato (thank you) a million times a day while bowing at approximately 45 degrees. Hand money over with both hands, and accept change and receipts in the same manner. Don't point your finger. And don't speak loudly when on the train. Actually, if you can help it, don't speak at all. If you're given a sample of something, eat it one the spot. Don't walk away and eat it, that's rude. Gifts should be wrapped. Stand on the left hand of the escalator, walk on the right. There are so many more that I haven't mentioned and a million that I don't know. The amazing thing about the Japanese people is that while the have their rules and codes, they don't necessarily expect you to know them. No one will correct you or feel slighted that you did something wrong. But that's what makes you want to learn and respect them more. That and they're usually sooooo nice. So considerate. I can't tell you how many times Ori and I stepped onto a train and not seen two seats together. Someone next to an empty seat will get up and sit in a single to create a double for us. This happens repeatedly. Amazing!

Anyways, back to Miyajima. We stopped to have a late lunch - Okonomiaki again. Not as great as the first time last night, but still yummy nonetheless. I got a traditional Japanese doll and Ori got a new Tshirt (as is his tradition in a new country) that says Samurai in Japanese (at least we hope it does). :)

We got back on the ferry and said goodbye to Miyajima and got back to Hiroshima.

What a truly amazing day. 

Tomorrow is another long day - we finally get to go see Naoshima. It is an island full of art. What's crazy is that most Japanese don't know it. In fact, no one here thus far that we've spoken to has heard of it. We're really excited. More photos to come tomorrow. 

Yay to long train rides for allowing me to catch up on the blog. 

Bye for now.