Tuesday, October 14, 2014

Rain rain go away, come again after we've left Japan

We woke up in Hakone to the sound of rain. Lots of rain. We'd been warned about the coming of a typhoon, but it was a day early. So much for the open air museum. Of all museums in Japan, this is the one that I didnt want to miss. We left the hotel with rain coats and an umbrella all set to brave the weather. We got as far as twenty feet out of the hotel before we decided there was no point in going to an OPEN air museum in such lousy weather. Further, we needed to take a fenicular and cable car to get to the next hotel, both of which might close down if the weather intensified, in which case we would be without accommodation for the night. It was a monday and we might have been able to find a hotel in the area we were at but there would be nothing to do there. nothing. 
So we went back to the hotel, got our bags and walked back to the train station. There we got on the fenicular.
After that, we got on a cable car. After that, another cable car.
Though it was morning, the rain was so heavy that we could not see a thing. Occassionally the trees were so close, we could see some green, but otherwise it was just white outside from the rain. 
I was so disappointed. This was to have been a fabulous day and the rain ruined it. No museum, no view. And the view from the cable car was supposed to have been great. We were supposed to have seen Fuji from the top of the cable car route. We got to the top of the mountain and it was still quite early. Much to early to try and get into early checkout, if its at all possible. So we decided to go on the sightseeing boatride. Yes, in the rain, but we figured we should take advantage of the time and the opportunity to go on it, should it too cancel due to rain. 

Apparently, we weren't the only ones who had the same idea, and the boat was full, with at least two other groups in addition to the individual travelers like us. We could see that on a clear day, the view would have been amazing. We could see the green of the surrounding mountains, and as we got closer to the shores (there were multiple stops) we could see quaint little cottages.
There were even a few red Torii's around. 
We got a salut from the captain/pirate and disembarked. 
We then decided to head to the hotel. This was the only hotel that I had chosen throughout the trip (Ori chose all the oters) and I was really hoping that I didnt bomb on this one time. We started walking according to the directions given by the hotel, or maybe it was booking.com. Whatever it was, it chose to give us simple directions rather than short directions. There we were with our packs, in the rain, frustrated with the situation and the thing sent us walking an extra ten minutes needlessly. Of course, we didnt know this until we were past the halfway point of the walk when we had to walk back in the same direction from which we had just come. 
We got to the hotel, of course several hours before check in time, but the hotel, and the entire area, was empty. We thought they might let us check in early. But no, thats not the way things happen in Japan. You think Canadians are square? You havent tried checking in early in Japan. Can we check in? Hmm, yes, at 3pm. Yes, I know checkin is supposed to be the, but its raining and we're wet. Can we check in early? Hmm, room ready. Check in at 3pm. Okkkaaay. Never mind ten.  We went out for lunch and got back at 2:30. Thankfully, we found a great little restaurant just a few minutes away and it was delicious. Ori had udon, I had soba and they made us vegetable tempura - yumm! And all this was eaten with a view to the lake. Yes, it was still raining, but there was some elegance to the grey sky and rain hitting the water. 
I think we really confused the guy when we got back before three pm. He went back and asked for permission to let us check in a whole thirty minutes early. You have to understand, we were still wet, tired, at least not hungry, and we were just told that our bags are already in our room. Why cant you let us go into the room? So, maybe they took pity, maybe they just didnt want us hanging around the reception area anymore, but they let us in. The room was nice, the beds were comfortable, and we had tea and cookies waiting for us in the room. We relaxed and waited around until 4pm - the time we booked the private onsen. I was super excited for that. So far, we had gone separately, which was great, but still, not the same. This place (one of the reasons I chose it) allowed couples to book private time in one of two of their open air onsens. We put on our Yukata and the jackets and went to the onsen. We had to walk outside for about five feet but there were umbrellas. Once you're in the dressing room, you lock the door for the duration of your blocked private time slot. We walked outside and stepped into the onsen. There was a half roof over the onsen itself, but we could definitely see the sky and the rain and the trees. In fact, there were plants on one side of the onsen. It was really beautiful  and romantic. I dont think anyone else was crazy enough to go outside and so the only sound we could hear was that of the rain. Of all the onsens I had been to on this trip, this was by far my favourite.
We went back to the room and waited out the time till our six pm dinner. Another Kasekei dinner. Though the one in Koyasan was great, the other few that we'd eaten had been less than successful. You be the judge - 
Well, we didn't leave hungry, but it was less than satisfying. I dont know what it is about the Japanese cuisine that has to put sweet syrups on most everything. Steamed vegetables and syrup, cooked fish and syrup. At least they took into consideration the food restrictions and didnt serve us pork but rather fish. That part of the meal was good. Drinks were free so Ori had a couple of beers but for me it was a little less than exciting Everything was carbonated, including the cocktails. After the second trial, I gave up and stuck to water. 
That was it for the excitement of the day. We had booked another private session in the onsen but by then the weather had gotten so bad that neither Ori nor I wanted to brave the outdoors even those two seconds in order to get into the water. We each went to the separate indoor onsen and met up a few minutes later in the room. 
That was it for the day. So very different from all the other days on our trip. We hope that tomorrow wont rain too much and that we'll be able to get back to Tokyo at a reasonable time to actually do stuff. 
Here's hoping Buddha smiles on us and clears up the weather.  

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