Showing posts with label sushi. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sushi. Show all posts

Wednesday, October 8, 2014

Fushimi-Inari, Nara Buddha and Sushi with friends

Ok, before I start telling you about the attractions of the day, I have to warn you, if you're planning on coming to Japan, regardless of what anyone else tells you, bring bug spray. Lots and lots of industrial strength bug spray. And just in case, bring after bite. I was told its not the season for mosquitos, and seeing as we're backpacking, I decided not to take either of the above necessities. BIG mistake. At least for me. I have been eaten alive, all over. I have on on my temple, about twenty on each ankle, a big collection in the shape of a C on my back, and don't get me started on my arms. Ori? "don't worry about him, he's just fine. Not one bite. Probably cause they're all busy biting me. 
Ok, back to the day we had. Throughout the night there was torrential rain. The typhoon had finally arrived. Thankfully, we awoke to a few drizzles and by the time we were on our way, the clouds had mostly cleared up.  We headed out to Fushimi-Inari. It is a temple made up of one thousand red Toriis, one after another, creating a long red passage way up the mountain. 
It takes about an hour, maybe an hour and a half to climb all the way to the top (yup, another day of climbing) but it was worth it. So different from any other temple, from any other place in Japan actually. Again we were blessed with timing and were able to take some photos on our own. The thing about the climb is you dont really know how much further, so with the humidity and the bugs and the scratching, I can't say I totally enjoyed every second, but was encouraged to continue when the canadian guy we passed on his way back down reported we only had another twenty minutes. And a little after that a nice Chinese couple offered me some of their tiger balm to put on my bites. Just before the top there is a beautiful point over looking the city. Funny enough, it was the opposite direction as the view point we had the day before when we were on the Monkey mountain. We continued upwards to the top of the mountain (233 meters elevation) but there was no view from there. It was just the top of the temple with a prayer alter and some religious artifacts. Interesting but not what we had expected. 
It was probably one of the more impressive temples we had see on our trip. 
Next we went to Nara. We got back to the train station and found out that we had almost a half hour before the train to Nara and so we went hunting for some food. I spotted a kiosk of something at the end of the block and we went investigating. It was a man cooking beef on a bar-b-q. Ori had just said that he was craving meat so I told him to go ahead and that i would head back to the 7 eleven and find a rice and tuna triangle. As Im standing in front of the rice options trying to figure out which is the tuna and which is the shrimp, in comes Ori half harried waving a skewer of meat at my face - You have to try this! He said excitedly. I took a bite, thinking, ok, its beef, how exciting could it be? Oh how I underestimated Japanese street meat. It was amazing. Heaven on a stick. Do you want one? he asked. Already half way to the door to get another before we had to get to the train. I paid for the drink and rice triangle and waited for him outside. He came back with two more. It was that good. I dont know what kind of meat it was, or what cut, or what spices he put n it, or how long he cooked it, but it was mmmmmm yummmy!  Needless to say, I did not eat that rice triangle. 
Throughout the planning of this trip, I told Ori that I didnt want this to be a checklist trip. The kind where you pile on a whole bunch of things in one day and you go - check, check, check, that youve been to those places. Its not the kind of trip I wanted, and definitely not the kind of honeymoon. Luckily, its not Ori's cup of tea either. We take our time, we stroll, we sit and enjoy parks. We may not frequent coffee shops, but we're not rushing through either. Why am I mentioning this at this point? Well, because today is the closest I felt to that kind of trip, and yet, not really. Once we were finished the climb back down Fushimi Inari, Ori suggested we pop over to Nara to see the big buddha. It wasnt on our original schedule, but I had never seen a big buddha and Ori, having seen a few in his travels in the East, said that I would probably enjoy it. Since we were so close to Nara (which used to be Japan's capital in the past). We got on the train - the local one, Oy. The Lonely Planet says that Nara is a short 30 minutes away. And so when it took us over an hour and fifteen, we were seriously frustrated. The train stopped and waited at every train station for so long, we made a point of getting the schedule for the next direct train back once we arrive in Nara.   
We got to Nara to find deer everwhere. Not like in Miyajima where there are a few, here they were everywhere. And people had booths selling their crackers. One woman started feeding them and they almost fed on her. The photo here is of an actual deer - this is not a statue. 
We got to the temple and were wowed by the view. The old wooden temple on a backdrop of bright green was awe inspiring. 
The Buddha inside is 15 meters high. Our eyes took a second to adjust to the low light inside the temple from the bright sunlight outside. I looked up and there it was - a huge, serene, quiet buddha guarded by two golden statues. He is sitting on lotus flower leaves, each carved symbolically with images of people, temples, flowers, and other deities. the details were indescribable.

 We walked slowly around the statues trying to take them all in. 
 Hard to do when just its hand is that big. 
What a fabulous day so far. But wait, its not over :) We havent had dinner yet. 
We got back to the hotel, showered and got all pretty and went out to meet Maya and Erez for sushi dinner. Yum! Too bad the place was closing twenty minutes after we arrived (no exceptions). We inhaled our dinner and went our looking for dessert. Maya and Erez recommended a french bakery place down the street and so thats where we went and had the souffle that they had before. The Japanese are not really well known for their desserts. Not only the dish itself but the practice of eating dessert. Most often, people will purchase sweets (usually bean paste based) and take it home to be shared with friends and family there). Restaurants dont often have desserts on their menu.  
The souffle was nice and the company was nicer. 
Signing off, till next time. 


Sunday, October 5, 2014

Morning Prayer, Meditation and Kyoto, sushi

Yes, I know, its been a few days since Ive written, but they have been so full that Ive just been to exhausted to sit and write. Actually, weve been coming back to the hotel so tired and late that its all I can do to muster up the energy to shower and crawl into bed. So, back to Friday morning...
As I was saying in the last post, we wanted to wake up to observe the monks' prayer, which was to take place at 6:30am. Ori put on the alarm so we wouldnt sleep through the early prayer. Turns out, no need. At six am sharp the gong went off - many times. And up we were and on time at prayer. 
It was quite interesting - in the way that I felt like i was in synagogue. The main monk said something and the others repeated. they all chanted songs and they was some big metal bowl hit (ok, so you dont do that in synagogue, but stil). After prayer, all the monks but the head monk and our student monk left the prayer room (they took out the tatami sleeping mats out of the guests rooms and went to prepare breakfast). The head monk then led us in a meditation lesson which was translated (quite impressively) by the student monk (maybe english is becoming a job requirement?). Right hand is for Buddah and left hand is for you. put them together and thats how you take in buddah and wisdom into your heart. 
We then went back to our room and were served breakfast. Not as impressive as dinner but still fine. Soup, rice, tofu stuff, and of course green tea. Once we were all packed up we went to check out and were gifted with fortune bracelets. Bye bye Temple Yochiin.

We went walking and visited the famous cemetary in Koyasan - Oko-no-in. 
We then got on the bus to get our bags and head back to the train station - later Kyoto. Sitting on the bus, I was looking for our bus passes and couldnt find them. Ori and I have developed a habit that he carries some things and i others. Transportation passes are one of my things. I emptied pockets and my purse and couldnt find them. I asked Ori if he accidentally took them from the desk as the woman was explaining what each card was (they are not JR passes and as such not the usual comprehensive cards - no english). He insisted he didnt have them. As we were approaching our stop I asked him once again to check his pockets. Though he continued insisting that there was no way he had them, he stuck his hand into his pocket and what do you know? He first blushed and then out came his hand from his pocket with tickets. He smiled shepishly and even botherred to ask whether I had put them in his pocket. Oy. Well, at least they were found. 
Bye Koyasan. 
Back to the temple, to the bus, to the cablecar, subway, train, bus and hotel in Kyoto.
It was getting late by the time we arrived in Kyoto so we didnt do too much but managed to find a great sushi place. Probably nothing in comparison to to the quality of the fish market tuna that we had the other week in tokyo, but still yummy and the service was great and the place was full of locals as well as tourists. Later we found out that it was also recommended in the Lonely Planet book. 
Full on yummy fish, we went out to enjoy the evening. We walked around Gion and the area and even spotted a Geisha (fake up, explanation to come tomorrow).
More about the exciting stuff in Kyoto in the next entry. RIght now, Im pooped and going to bed. 
Theres so much more I have to write about - Japans toilets, and the toilet paper, womens obsession with heels, and so much more 
Stay tuned ....

Monday, September 29, 2014

Japan is a totally different world.

עולם  אחר. זה מה שמרגישים פה אחרי שלושה ימים. טוקיו עיר אדירה, מטורפת ומעניינת שיש בה את הדברים הכי חדשים בעולם ליד מערכת שלמה של חוקים נוקשים ומסורות ישנות שעובדים ופועלים לפיהם. אתה מוצא את עצמך חושב כל הזמן אם מה שעשית בסדר או לא, מקובל או פוגע. בשום רגע לא משעמם פה. כל ביקור באתר, חנות או מסעדה מלא הפתעות כי אתה לא באמת יודע מה תקבל ומה תראה. הם שונים פשוט בכל דבר אפשרי. בחלק מהפעמים אתה חושב שהם גאונים ואיך במערב עוד לא חשבו על זה ובחלק מהמקרים אתה חושב שהם פשוט פסיכיים. יש להם חנות לכל נושא בעולם. ותמיד זה יהיה מלווה בקיטש ובפסיכוזה כלשהיא. האמת שבאמת כמה שנכתוב ונתאר לא יעזור. חייבים לראות את זה כדי להאמין. בטוקיו רמת האנגלית של האנשים עוד סבירה והשלטים גם באנגלית אבל אני מניח שמחוץ לעיר זה כבר לא יהיה אותו דבר.
התחלנו את הבוקר בכניסה לחנות takashiyama..תשאלו למה? כי כל יום יש טקס פתיחת החנות וכל העובדים מכבדים את הלקוחות שנכנסים ועוברים במעברים בקידה וברכה. סיון יצאה עם חיוך גדול משם וזה שווה הכל.

משם יצאנו לבניין ממשלתי בשינג'וקו שיש ממנו תצפית מקומה 45 על חלק גדול מהעיר . שינג'וקו הוא הרובע בו אנו ישנים והוא משלב בו הרבה בנייני ממשל, עסקים עם סצנת מסעדות ובילויים אדירה בערבים יחד עם תחנת הרכבת העמוסה בעולם.
לאחר מכן המשכנו לרובע harajuku בו נמצא המקדש הגדול ביותר בטוקיו ( עדיין קטן על אלו שבקיוטו) Meiji-jingu. צפויים לנו עוד הרבה מקדשים לפנינו ולכן בטוקיו המעטנו בכך אבל הוא באמת מרשים, שווה ביקור ונגיש מאוד ממש צמוד לתחנת הרכבת.
בכניסה עוברים בין טורי ענק בגובה 12 מטר שעשוי מעץ בן 1500 שנה..לא פשוט לתפוס אותו בלי מישהו מצטלם מתחתיו אז תעריכו את ההישג! טורי הוא בעצם שער כניסה למקום קדוש ועד כמה שאני מבין אמור להיות לפני כניסה לכל מקדש .

המקדש עצמו יפה ומרשים אבל מי שגנבו את ההצגה הם ארבעה זוגות שהתחתנו וערכו צילומים בתחומיו וגררו אחריהם המוני תיירים עם מצלמות שלופות. בכלל ביפן אתה זה שהופך ליפני הממוצע שמצלם כל דבר לפעמים גם דברים מאוד טיפשיים כי פשוט הכל שונה. אז נחזור לחתונות : הכלות לא נראו שמחות מידי. יכול להיות שזה הלחץ מהאירוע ויכול להיות שזה סתם האיפוק היפני.

דווקא בצד השני של תחנת הרכבת איפוק זו המילה הלא נכונה. הרג'וקו ידועה באופנה המוזרה והמקורית עד להחריד של בני הנוער שלה שמסתובבים ברחוב עם תלבושות ואיפור שלא היו מביישים חג פורים בתל אביב. תוסיפו לזה רחובות מלאים בחנויות בגדים ואביזרים מוזרים, הרבה חתולים בצורות וגדלים שונים על חולצות, שלטים וכו' ותקבלו הרבה צבעוניות ואקשן ברחובות וחגיגה לעיניים.

ארוחת הצהריים בהרג'וקו היתה חגיגה לפה (לפחות לי. באסה לסיון ששומרת כשרות) במקום שמתמחה בגיוזה (כיסונים יפניים למי שלא יודע) והיתה מוצלחת מאוד (אבל חכו שתקראו על הארוחת ערב. שם זה באמת מפתיע)... סיימנו את הביקור בתחנת רכבת עמוסה כיאה לסופשבוע יפני. יותר מידי אנשים על פחות מידי מקום. 

כמעט שלושה ימים ביפן וסיון עדיין לא אכלה סושי. סוג של מחדל. אז הלכנו למצוא אחד כזה ומצאנו. מקום מקומי של סושי רץ על מסוע על צלחות קטנות ואתה פשוט לוקח כל צלחת שאתה רוצה ומשלם אחרי זה בהתאם לכמות ולצבע של הצלחות.

זו בעצם היתה ארוחת הסושי הראשונה שלי! יצא לטעום בעבר פה ושם אבל לא יותר מזה. היה דיי טעים ואני אוכל שוב למרות שעדיין האוכל המועדף עליי עד עכשיו ביפן הוא מרק אודון.

חמש בבוקר עכשיו. אנחנו יושבים כבר שעה וחצי בחדר עם עוד בערך מאה איש ומחכים לראות את הטונה הכי טריה בעיר נבדקת ונמכרת. בכל יום כמעט המכירה הזו מתבצעת ו120 מבקרים יכולים לצפות בזה. לכן מגיעים מוקדם מוקדם ומוותרים על שינת הלילה המתוקה. 


וארוחת הבוקר אחרי השוק?




Friday, September 26, 2014

Sumo Tournament and lots of udon

We found our quaint little hotel, showered and freshened up a little and went exploring.
First there was a food floor in the basement of a large fancy schmancy department store by our hotel. Here are some samples. 
We didnt try the sushi yet, but it looked delicious. 
And the melons! For the next wedding you attend, how about gifting the bride and groom with a melon? No, not just an ordinary melon. This one comes with the price tag of $162 - a little steep you say? I don't know, it comes with its own fancy box 

 Lunch was ordered out of the machine on the right of this restaurant and eaten inside. Delicious Udon serrved with a smile. 

Then came the time to go to the Sumo Tournament. This is one of the largest in Japan and we were lucky Ori found out about it. 
Small world, we bumped into friends there and spend the evening chit chatting and then went out to Akhihabara together and for dinner. 

It is the electronics centre of Tokyo, where toys and accessories of the past and future can be found in plenty. Crazy things can be seen there. 
 and entire store dedicated to the Yoyo. And these were no simple yoyos - cheapest was $48 and the highest, not taking into conideration to the collectors items, the highest i found were over $200!!

Its the end of the last day and we are zonked.
Tomorrow more adventures await.